Madeira’s culinary scene has discovered ponchas and espetadas and their popularity have made them two of the most familiar icons in Madeira Island. They are featured in every laminated tourist menu but don’t order either of them, it will just end in disappointment since you need to find specialists to enjoy authentic poncha and espetada experiences.
At Least It’s Not Pigeon and Grog
If your espetada arrives without a skewer, leave at once! Remember that espetada literally means “skewer.” Without being grilled over an open flame with fragrant bay laurel twigs, really you’re just getting broiled meat on a metal plate, maybe with rice and salad.
Or if you order a random poncha, beware, it may be a sickly sweet, pre-mixed concoction. And if there’s no wooden muddler in sight, you’re drinking a tourist trap version.
Consider yourself lucky, even with a mediocre poncha or espetada! When the settlers landed in Madeira, they brought the espetada method of open-fire cooking, a technique dating back to Medieval Europe and North Africa. But early espetada was made with skewered goat, rabbit, and lots of pigeons. And the poncha was not yet a thing, however they had many recipes to prevent scurvy, like preserving lemons in alcohol or making grog for sailors.
1400-1500s: Prince Henry’s Discovery Kicks it All Off
You could say it all started with Prince Henry the Navigator and his need for eyeglasses..

When Prince Henry landed on the fishing village (and municipality) of Câmara de Lobos shore in an expedition shortly after Madeira’s discovery in 1419 he was delighted that the bay was teeming with fish. He also mistook the large population of lounging sea lions as wolves (lobos). Finding the presence of wolves on an ocean shore, he named the settlement, Câmara de Lobos (Den of Wolves).
Despite the name, its natural harbor and fertile land became a very important economic area, including helping with the sugarcane supply, another huge economic contribution. All sailors carried ad-hoc medicinal remedies for scurvy. Typically, lemons were preserved in alcohol, or other global recipes. But thanks to the distillation of aguardente, immediately after the sugar cane first emerged in the 1400, the Portuguese began using aguardente with lemon and honey, consumed for its medicinal benefits, but also for its strong kick that landed hard enough to cause a sailor to forget his fishing nets at port.
1600s-1800s: Espada Gains Beef and Popularity in Festivals

While poncha was cementing its place in Madeira’s drinking culture, espetada was preserving its own traditions. Beef may have been out of reach for most Madeirans, but the Catholic Church provided a solution. During arraiais (the numerous festivals celebrating saints throughout the year) gave even the poorest Catholic citizens access to free, open-fired, fantastic grilled beef as part of the celebration.
It was during one of these festivals that a creative, soul, maybe a vineyard worker, skewered their espetada using a bay laurel branch instead of a regular stick. The result? A rich, smoky aroma infused into the meat, a hallmark of espetada still enjoyed today.These arraiais remain an essential part of Madeiran culture. In the summer months. The festivals are enormous and the best espetada and poncha i Câmara de Lobos can still be found during these vibrant festivals.
1600-1800s: The Poncha is Named and Creates the Tavern Culture

As the sugarcane industry in the 1600s turned Madeira into one of the world's largest sugar exporters, it also led to the production of aguardente, a sugarcane-distilled rum with a fiery kick, the poncha ingredient that can’t be substituted.
Then around the 1700 the poncha gained the indispensable muddling sidekick and was given its official name. The caralhinho, that custom wooden muddler, was invented to help blend the sticky honey, lemon peels, and aguardente, an essential tool, not just a tradition, as it extracts oils and flavors from the lemon peels. This new version was a hit with the workers and launched the taberna (tavern) culture, similar to the British pub culture that continues to this day.
By the 19th century, Câmara de Lobos had developed a reputation among wealthy British travelers, with Winston Churchill playing a big part in helping gain desirability throughout the island! Even the wealthy Brits that lived in Madeira because of the wine culture were often carried in hammocks to visit the area while documenting the exciting excursions in their journals.
1900s: Espetada Enjoys New “Restaurant-Worthy” Status

By the mid-20th century, Câmara de Lobos had grown beyond its fishing village roots and was becoming Madeira’s culinary capital. In 1950, Francisco da Silva Freitas had a vision: turn espetada into a restaurant dish. He opened the first espetada-only restaurant in Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, and it was an instant success.
This shift marked the moment when espetada became a staple of everyday dining, not just festival food, but to a commercially viable meal. It put all of Câmara de Lobos on the map and propelled espetada’s popularity in Madeira Island and beyond.
Then, by the 1990s, Portugal joined the European Union and the McDonald’s era began. This lowered the price of beef and raised the quality, making it accessible for any family. Refrigeration techniques were now highly developed and espetada became mostly associated with tender, filet of beef.
The Authentic Ponchas and Espetadas Are Always the Best

Locals know that traditional methods and communal gatherings in Câmara de Lobos are what make up a fantastic meal and beverage feast. Hearty laughter and the races to pluck the mouthwatering tender beef off each skewer, is part of the recipe. You just can’t beat it, especially if you include sipping that freshly muddled poncha and toasting (or roasting) everyone at the table. Then arguing for the last piece of Bolo do Caco (buttery island garlic bread) that sits under the juicy skewered beef, it’s really what the entire experience has been like since the beginning.
Espetada has always been served straight from a raging fire, skewered chunks of marinated tenderloin sizzling with garlic, bay, and smoky goodness. The butter at the top melts, dripping onto bolo do caco, and as soon as a skewer arrives, it’s time to order the next one.
Poncha should hit you with a citrus kick. It must be muddled and stirred vigorously with the caralhinho to properly blend the sticky honey and release oils and flavor from the lemon peel, blending it all with aguardente, Madeira’s sugarcane spirits, that can’t be missed.
Here’s How to Enjoy Poncha and Espetada, No Compromises.
Step 1: First, gather a lively group of friends.
✔ Poncha and espetada are never enjoyed alone.
✔ If your group isn’t laughing yet, just wait—that’s the poncha’s job.
Step 2: Head to Câmara de Lobos.
✔ Not Funchal. Not your hotel bar. Câmara. De. Lobos.
Step 3: Pick a taberna that specializes in authentic methods for each.
✔ Traditional ponchas are made with honey and lemon peel.
✔ If the menu includes pizza, pasta, or burgers, leave immediately.
Step 4: Start with poncha.
✔ It should be freshly stirred with a caralhinho.
✔ If it comes from a pre-mixed jug, walk away.
✔ The first sip should be strong, honey-sweet, and shockingly citrusy.
Step 5: Here comes the espetada!
✔ If it’s not hanging from a metal hook, demand answers.
✔ The scent of garlic, red wine, bay laurel, and smokeshould hit you before the skewer does.
✔ Slide a piece of beef onto buttery, garlicky bolo do caco.
Step 6: Take a bite, take a sip, and let the laughter flow.
Congratulations! Now you’ve had the real taberna experience.