Welcome to Madeira Island, Portugal

Welcome to HA Madeira!

As expats and locals, we've explored every corner of Madeira: villages, levadas, beaches, and more. Whether you're dreaming of a fresh start or just curious about life in Portugal, we're here to guide you every step of the way.

The Madeira Island Vibe: Q&A

While we are working on our HA Madeira release, we have created a group to discuss Madeira's hidden gems and hidden hurdles.

The group is an enforced, non-commercial safe place to ask any question you have about relocation, visits, cultural differences and even specific neighborhoods.

As a group member, you will have access to any of our pre-release features or content and we appreciate your thoughts, good and bad!

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The Team

Our team of regional experts are excited to introduce you to Madeira, "The Gem of the Ocean" (A Joia do Mar).

Jessie Jessie
Matilde Matilde
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Recent Posts

 

Questions: How Does Portugal Compare in Safety, Cost and More?

Essential Due Diligence Check Lists

Depending on where in the world you want to live, narrowing down a European country for relocation typically needs to start with finding the best visa and residency programs. Some countries make it more difficult if you live outside the EU or even Europe. Then, you need to do as much due diligence as you can, before you dig into the lifestyle options. As we did our research, the most accessible programs that also welcome NON-EU citizens are Portugal (including Madeira), Italy, Spain, Malta and Greece.

We've created this checklist that can be used for any country. In this case we're doing the due diligence for our top Four residency programs and have noted the results in the checklist below.


Visa and Residency

There are many variations and options that we have not listed. Below is a quick summary noting the most popular paths to residency for non-EU citizens.

COUNTRY

VISA TYPES

NOTES

Portugal

D7, D2, Startup Visa

Portugal has the lowest income requirement to begin a path to residency. It is based on the country’s minimum wage, which is €903 per month, or about $12,000, to be opened in a PT bank account as of 2025. Additionally, the NHR program, to reduce taxes for 10 years, is still in effect.

The Golden Visa program has ended in Portugal.

Spain

Golden Visa

Non-Lucrative Visa

Most American retirees use the Non-Lucrative Visa (NLV) to stay in Spain long-term. Often called a passive-income visa, all you need to do to qualify for the NLV is prove an income of €2,400 / month (plus extra for each dependent)

The Golden Visa in Spain requires a €500,000+ investment (real estate, government bonds, bank deposits, etc).

Italy

Golden Visa, Digital Nomad, Elective Residency

For citizens of non-EU countries requirements are a bit more stringent. However, there are various visa programs to choose from.

Greece

D-visa, Digital Nomad, Golden Visa, FIP

Greece has the FIP Visa (Financially Independent Person), which requires a monthly income of at least €3,500 / month from passive income (rentals, investments, etc).


Safety and Security

The GPI releases a composite index measuring the peacefulness of countries made up of 23 indicators each weighted on a scale of 1-5. The lower the score the more peaceful the country. The prisoner count is just a quick look at the differences in imprisonment.

COUNTRY

GPI INDEX ON PEACE & SAFETY
top ranking is #1

Portugal/Madeira

Ranked 7th

Spain

Ranked 23rd

Italy

Ranked 33rd

Greece

Ranked 40th

USA

Ranked 132



Schools and Education

Madeira's education options will be looked at more in-depth.

Presented is data published by the OECD in the form of the PISA index scores (higher is better). Evidence is shows that higher PISA scores, the stronger the educational systems. But this is highly dependent on the higher GPA countries and tourism rates.

COUNTRY

PISA
SCORE

LITERACY

EDUCATION RANK
WT20

WT20
Graduation Rate

Portugal/Madeira

1433

103rd

24th

92%

Spain

1432

123rd

20th

88%

Greece

1309

128th

33rd

83%

Italy

1430

155th

36th

87%

USA

1468


133rd

31st

85%


Cost of Living (One Person / Month)

Cost of living is a tough one to pin down. If you look outside the city hubs, you'll find rents much lower and more availability (but possibly fewer conveniences or English speakers). The following are approximations based on one person in or near a metro area.

COUNTRY

UTILITIES
(1 Small Home)

GROCERIES

1 br/ 1 ba RENTAL
(City Center)

Portugal

€100–140

€180–250

Over €1,000, hard to find

Madeira

€80-120

€150-300

€900-1200, hard to find

Spain

€100–150

€200–250

€1,000–1,300, hard to find

Italy

€100–180

€200–250

€1,000–1,300, much lower in villages

Greece

€100–180

€200–250

€500–700 (clear winner). More expensive on islands.

USA
(Metro areas)

€115–185
($120–200)

€235–325
$250–400

$2,000 and up up up in metro areas. Much lower in rural and smaller cities.


Insurance & Healthcare

COUNTRY

PUBLIC HEALTHCARE

PRIVATE INSURANCE
(healthy mid adult)

NOTES

Portugal

SNS system: Free

€50-80+

Some plans restrict entry or even cancellation at 70-75 yrs. Requires careful due-diligence.

Madeira

SNS system: Free

€40-80+

Some plans restrict entry or even cancellation at 70-75 yrs. Requires careful due-diligence.

Spain

Strong free public system

€40–60+

€60-100, with exclusions & limitations

Italy

Public healthcare (SSN), low direct costs for residents.

€50–100+

Older applicants may face higher rates.

Greece

Free for residents. Reported variable quality/wait times.

€40–80+

Some plans restrict entry after 65–70

USA

Bit of a mess. Regional differences. Mostly private, employer-sponsered.

Vast differences. Many uninsured. Blue and red state "Obama Care" system. Large deductibles.

Medicare for 65+, most pay for co-insurance of $300+. Lots of exclusions, challenging to navigate.


Climate

COUNTRY

NOTES

SUMMER

WINTER

Portugal

Regional: north is cooler and wetter; central and southern areas are warmer and drier. Lisbon gets hot!

77–95 °F
(25–35 °C)

~50 °F
(10 °C)

Madeira
(Funchal area)

Mild subtropical. Gorgeous, even during occasional storms. Depends on location because there are 5 microclimates!

75–80 °F (24–27 °C)

60–68 °F
(16–20 °C)

Spain

Southern and eastern coasts have temperate Mediterranean weather.

Central - hot:
85–95 °F
(29–35 °C)

North: ~75 °F (24 °C)

Central: 32–50 °F
(0–10/11 °C)
North:
50–75 °F
(10–24 °C)

Italy

Regional differences.


North: Hot, humid summers (up to ~90 °F (32 °C)

Central/South: Very warm summers (~85–95 °F (29–35 °C)

North: Cold winters: ~32 °F (0 °C)

Central/South: milder winters:
~45–55 °F (7–13 °C)

Greece

Mediterranean. Mountainous north colder with winter snow.

~50–60 °F
(10–15 °C)

Hot, dry summers:
80–95 °F
(27–35 °C)

USA
(Midwest)

VAST regional differences.

>100°F / >38 °C

~0–20 °F
(-18– -7 °C).


Taxes

Some countries offer expats and high earners tax breaks but the rules are too complex for a quick overview. Use the figures below as an estimation.

COUNTRY
(Metro Areas)

INCOME TAXES

PROPERTY TAXES

BASE VAT

Portugal

Progressive income tax peaks near 48%.

NHR tax regime for expats may reduce taxes on some foreign-sourced income for up to 10 years. The program is still in effect as of late 2024.

Annual municipal property taxes (IMI) ~0.3–0.5%

23%

Madeira

Progressive income tax peaks near 48%. (See note about NHR above).

Annual municipal property taxes (IMI) ~0.3–0.45%

22%

Spain

Progressive national income tax ~19–47% with regional surcharges.

Property ownership taxes differ by region; capital gains tax also applies on sales.

21%

Italy

Progressive income tax up to ~43%.

Regions often add small surcharges.

Some southern areas offer tax breaks to foreign retirees.

IMU property tax regime,often for second homes.

~0.4% up to around 0.76% of a “cadastral” (assessed) value.

Primary residences are exempt or pay reduced rates (except for luxury homes).

22%

Greece

Progressive income tax up to ~44%.

Some reduced tax regimes (.7% flat tax) exist for retirees or high earners.

ENFIA property tax regime varies greatly by location and property size/type.

There is also a municipal tax (often tied to electricity bills), which further depends on the property’s zone and local rates.

24%

USA

Federal progressive income tax: 10–37%.

Many states add their own income tax up to 13%.

Vary greatly by region, zoning, value.

Some states (e.g., Florida, Texas) forgo income tax but typically have higher property or sales taxes.

Varies by state, county and metro area.

Typically 5-10% on top of sales price (unlike VAT).

Jessie's avatar
Jessie
Author at haMadeira
 

Question: What Are the Steps to Becoming a Portuguese Resident?

An Overview of the Visa and Residency Steps

Is it hard to become a Madeiran resident? If you pre-plan and follow all details, it's not hard. Be prepared, follow these steps and do your fact checking. This is a brief overview of three important stages for 2025. Beware of old guides and tips.

Stage 1: The Due Diligence Steps

  1. Review the visa types (in this article we're using the popular D7).

  2. Check the personal requirements and the expectations for that visa type.

  3. Identify your regional Portuguese consulate (or VFS).

  4. Immediately create your visa appointment, don't leave it until the end.

  5. Download the official application and official checklist.

Stage 2: The Application and Documentation Stage

Consult YOUR downloaded official checklist and keep all documents in the same order of that list (no staples). Below are of some of the docs you may need during Stage 3 for 2025.

  1. Continue to pester, email and call your console to narrow down a date for your visa meeting. From that date you can calculate the timings of bank statements, insurance, and items that have deadlines. It's the most important thing on this list.

  2. Make sure your passport is good for at least another year. Get a notarized copy.

  3. Find a local Madeiran friend or a US-friendly Portuguese bank that is willing to help you. Banks can get it all done - NIFs, health insurance and much more.

  4. Get your NIF (similar to a Social Security Card)

  5. Fund your Madeiran bank (you'll need that NIF) with one year's total minimum wage based on Madeira's wages.

  6. Start looking for a year's rental or a property to buy to provide official Proof of accommodation in Portugal. If you have local family, you can fill out a notarized (in Portugal, by a lawyer) Letter of Invitation. We will list other options and tips for this in our complete guide.

  7. Get Schengen travel insurance with medical benefits and COVID coverage when you have your dates assigned to you

  8. Get an FBI criminal record certificate, apostilled (similar to notarized. It's a pretty simple task involving getting yourself fingerprinted and going online to the FBI's dedicated page. Note: they only last a short time, check the details.

  9. Request a Portuguese criminal record check by the Foreigners and Borders Service (AIMA)

  10. Two passport photos of you (EU size)

  11. Personal statement declaring the reasons why you are seeking residency in Portugal

  12. Proof of income, including passive rental or remote income (printed within xxx weeks before your meeting)

  13. Fill out your downloaded or digital Application for a National Visa

  14. Organize it all according the the checklist order, double check it all, make digital copies and hard copies for your records.

  15. Then go to your console meeting and prepare to surrender your passport for up to a month or two.

  16. If you the receive your passport in the mail, and it has the approved visa stamped in it, look at it closely. It has the date of your SEF appointment. Make sure it's not scheduled for after your visa expires (it happens, DM for receipts!)

  17. Immediately try to reschedule the SEF appointment with your console's help, if needed. You'll be glad you did.

Stage 3: Congrats on Your Approval! Time for Another Interview.

In Stage 3 you'll get to know the Portuguese way of doing things, including setting your SEF approval! The SEF is extremely hard to reach by phone or even online. This is where your bank rep or local friend will really help out. The best advice is to come OVER prepared.

  1. Don't miss your appointment! And triple-check your documents and throw in a few extras that we will tell you about.

  2. Bring a local, if possible, or your banker. They can make anything happen. It is seriously the best advice we can give.

  3. When you enter, identify your balcão (desk) and take a ticket number for ONLY that specific desk.

  4. If you're lucky that day, and your documents aren't a mess, you'll be approved and soon receive your official two-year residency card and can move immediately to your dream home in Madeira!

Jessie's avatar
Jessie
Author at haMadeira
 

The Poncha and Espetada: A Historical Feast

Madeira’s culinary scene has discovered ponchas and espetadas and their popularity have made them two of the most familiar icons in Madeira Island.

Madeira’s culinary scene has discovered ponchas and espetadas and their popularity have made them two of the most familiar icons in Madeira Island. They are featured in every laminated tourist menu but don’t order either of them, it will just end in disappointment since you need to find specialists to enjoy authentic poncha and espetada experiences.

At Least It’s Not Pigeon and Grog

If your espetada arrives without a skewer, leave at once! Remember that espetada literally means “skewer.” Without being grilled over an open flame with fragrant bay laurel twigs, really you’re just getting broiled meat on a metal plate, maybe with rice and salad.

Or if you order a random poncha, beware, it may be a sickly sweet, pre-mixed concoction. And if there’s no wooden muddler in sight, you’re drinking a tourist trap version.

Consider yourself lucky, even with a mediocre poncha or espetada! When the settlers landed in Madeira, they brought the espetada method of open-fire cooking, a technique dating back to Medieval Europe and North Africa. But early espetada was made with skewered goat, rabbit, and lots of pigeons. And the poncha was not yet a thing, however they had many recipes to prevent scurvy, like preserving lemons in alcohol or making grog for sailors.

1400-1500s: Prince Henry’s Discovery Kicks it All Off

You could say it all started with Prince Henry the Navigator and his need for eyeglasses..

When Prince Henry landed on the fishing village (and municipality) of Câmara de Lobos shore in an expedition shortly after Madeira’s discovery in 1419 he was delighted that the bay was teeming with fish. He also mistook the large population of lounging sea lions as wolves (lobos). Finding the presence of wolves on an ocean shore, he named the settlement, Câmara de Lobos (Den of Wolves).

Despite the name, its natural harbor and fertile land became a very important economic area, including helping with the sugarcane supply, another huge economic contribution. All sailors carried ad-hoc medicinal remedies for scurvy. Typically, lemons were preserved in alcohol, or other global recipes. But thanks to the distillation of aguardente, immediately after the sugar cane first emerged in the 1400, the Portuguese began using aguardente with lemon and honey, consumed for its medicinal benefits, but also for its strong kick that landed hard enough to cause a sailor to forget his fishing nets at port.

1600s-1800s: Espada Gains Beef and Popularity in Festivals

While poncha was cementing its place in Madeira’s drinking culture, espetada was preserving its own traditions. Beef may have been out of reach for most Madeirans, but the Catholic Church provided a solution. During arraiais (the numerous festivals celebrating saints throughout the year) gave even the poorest Catholic citizens access to free, open-fired, fantastic grilled beef as part of the celebration.

It was during one of these festivals that a creative, soul, maybe a vineyard worker, skewered their espetada using a bay laurel branch instead of a regular stick. The result? A rich, smoky aroma infused into the meat, a hallmark of espetada still enjoyed today.These arraiais remain an essential part of Madeiran culture. In the summer months. The festivals are enormous and the best espetada and poncha i Câmara de Lobos can still be found during these vibrant festivals.

1600-1800s: The Poncha is Named and Creates the Tavern Culture

As the sugarcane industry in the 1600s turned Madeira into one of the world's largest sugar exporters, it also led to the production of aguardente, a sugarcane-distilled rum with a fiery kick, the poncha ingredient that can’t be substituted.

Then around the 1700 the poncha gained the indispensable muddling sidekick and was given its official name. The caralhinho, that custom wooden muddler, was invented to help blend the sticky honey, lemon peels, and aguardente, an essential tool, not just a tradition, as it extracts oils and flavors from the lemon peels. This new version was a hit with the workers and launched the taberna (tavern) culture, similar to the British pub culture that continues to this day.

By the 19th century, Câmara de Lobos had developed a reputation among wealthy British travelers, with Winston Churchill playing a big part in helping gain desirability throughout the island! Even the wealthy Brits that lived in Madeira because of the wine culture were often carried in hammocks to visit the area while documenting the exciting excursions in their journals.

1900s: Espetada Enjoys New “Restaurant-Worthy” Status

By the mid-20th century, Câmara de Lobos had grown beyond its fishing village roots and was becoming Madeira’s culinary capital. In 1950, Francisco da Silva Freitas had a vision: turn espetada into a restaurant dish. He opened the first espetada-only restaurant in Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, and it was an instant success.

This shift marked the moment when espetada became a staple of everyday dining, not just festival food, but to a commercially viable meal. It put all of Câmara de Lobos on the map and propelled espetada’s popularity in Madeira Island and beyond.

Then, by the 1990s, Portugal joined the European Union and the McDonald’s era began. This lowered the price of beef and raised the quality, making it accessible for any family. Refrigeration techniques were now highly developed and espetada became mostly associated with tender, filet of beef.

The Authentic Ponchas and Espetadas Are Always the Best

Locals know that traditional methods and communal gatherings in Câmara de Lobos are what make up a fantastic meal and beverage feast. Hearty laughter and the races to pluck the mouthwatering tender beef off each skewer, is part of the recipe. You just can’t beat it, especially if you include sipping that freshly muddled poncha and toasting (or roasting) everyone at the table. Then arguing for the last piece of Bolo do Caco (buttery island garlic bread) that sits under the juicy skewered beef, it’s really what the entire experience has been like since the beginning.

Espetada has always been served straight from a raging fire, skewered chunks of marinated tenderloin sizzling with garlic, bay, and smoky goodness. The butter at the top melts, dripping onto bolo do caco, and as soon as a skewer arrives, it’s time to order the next one.

Poncha should hit you with a citrus kick. It must be muddled and stirred vigorously with the caralhinho to properly blend the sticky honey and release oils and flavor from the lemon peel, blending it all with aguardente, Madeira’s sugarcane spirits, that can’t be missed.

Here’s How to Enjoy Poncha and Espetada, No Compromises.

Step 1: First, gather a lively group of friends.

✔ Poncha and espetada are never enjoyed alone.

✔ If your group isn’t laughing yet, just wait—that’s the poncha’s job.

Step 2: Head to Câmara de Lobos.

✔ Not Funchal. Not your hotel bar. Câmara. De. Lobos.

Step 3: Pick a taberna that specializes in authentic methods for each.

✔ Traditional ponchas are made with honey and lemon peel.

✔ If the menu includes pizza, pasta, or burgers, leave immediately.

Step 4: Start with poncha.

✔ It should be freshly stirred with a caralhinho.

✔ If it comes from a pre-mixed jug, walk away.

✔ The first sip should be strong, honey-sweet, and shockingly citrusy.

Step 5: Here comes the espetada!

✔ If it’s not hanging from a metal hook, demand answers.

✔ The scent of garlic, red wine, bay laurel, and smokeshould hit you before the skewer does.

✔ Slide a piece of beef onto buttery, garlicky bolo do caco.

Step 6: Take a bite, take a sip, and let the laughter flow.

Congratulations! Now you’ve had the real taberna experience.

 

Savoring Madeira: Every Meal Tells a Story

Madeira's cuisine reflects its rich cultural blend, history, and geography, featuring iconic dishes like bolo do caco, espetada, and espada, each paired with local traditions, vibrant social experiences, and the island's renowned wines.

Madeira’s food isn’t just about individual dishes—it’s a reflection of the island’s unique blend of cultures, history, and flavors - always with a nod to its history, agriculture and geography. From the hearty pratos típicos to the fresh catches of the day, every meal tells a story.

Bolo do Caco.  Let’s get one thing straight: 'bolo do caco' is NOT 'poop bread,' as that hilariously bad translation might have you believe. This Madeiran staple is a soft, garlicky flatbread with a secret ingredient — sweet yam—that makes it irresistibly fluffy. It’s a bread so good it deserves a standing ovation, especially when it’s grilled to perfection and slathered with garlic butter. But wait, there’s more — because no bolo do caco experience is complete until it’s paired with espetada.

Espetada. Espetada is not just a dish; it’s a culinary experience. Imagine tender chunks of beef, marinated and skewered, then grilled over blistering hot coals and hung on special hooks right at the table. Strategically placed below the skewers is the bolo do caco, soaking in that meaty, garlicky goodness, which takes  the dish from amazing to iconic. The meal itself is an interactive feast that’s best enjoyed in the lively company of family and friends. Think boisterous laughter, loud debates, clinking glasses, and at least one small kid weaving between tables like a rogue waiter-in-training, but being looked after by everyone. Aim for a restaurant in Câmara de Lobos and you may find one of those hidden gems where espetada reaches legendary status.

Espada. But don’t confuse espetada with espada, the scabbard fish. While espetada hangs out on skewers, espada swims deep in the Atlantic, looking like it’s auditioning for a horror movie. Don’t let its ghoulish appearance fool you; this fish is a Madeiran treasure. Its mild, tender flesh is perfect for grilling or frying. Feeling adventurous? Try it with banana on top, a dish that screams “tropical Madeira” and whispers “Portuguese tradition.”

Wine. And don’t even get me started on the wine. Skip the fancy bottles and go for the house wine, whether it’s red, white, or even green. It’s served in decanters and is often better than the expensive stuff.

So, what have we learned? Madeira’s food is as warm and welcoming as its people. From bolo do caco to espada, we’ve barely scratched the surface of the island’s tasty culinary landscape. We will cover the rest of the countless other regional dishes, drinks, and flavors waiting to be celebrated, each with its own story to tell. 

Have a favorite Madeiran dish or a question about the island's flavors? Share your stories or ask us anything when you follow us on Instagram, Facebook and the other social media platforms — we'd love to hear from you!

Jessie's avatar
Jessie
Author at haMadeira

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